




Alaska is a place of wild beauty. Renting a car, staying at hotels with kitchenettes and preparing our own food is one way to get around cheaply and comfortably with two small kids, but sometimes I feel like we're seeing a very domesticated version of this beautiful place, and I wish we could do it a bit more on the wild side.
Originally we intended to camp around Alaska borrowing tents and stuff from Brian's family, but when we finally got ready to leave and realized how much luggage we had, without all the camping paraphenalia, we nixed the idea. We sometimes pass campsites with people happily doing the closer to nature thing and I feel a spark of envy.
Aside from the luggage situation, the truth is we do not camp well either, so it is more likely a mixture of envy and relief, that we are not doing it rough. Our camping experiences in the past have been annoyingly compromised at best, like the time two essential tent poles were left behind, and we had to settle for a cabin on the edge of a drain in Yamba Waters. Then there was the time we didn't have enough water in the Arizona desert, and I had the seizure and Brian had a fly caught in his ear and for a hellish 3 or 4 minutes ran wildly around in circles screaming "get it out, get it out". Then between Sophia waking every hour crying loudly, and me having horrific nightmares about a madman breaking into our van and driving us into the river, none of us slept a wink.
Then there was the time we camped the Westfalia on the muggy shore of the Sea of Cortez at Bahia Kino. That night we swapped meals in the Pupo Rojo because I didn't like the taste of mine, and the next morning Brian had the worst case of food poisoning I've ever seen. We had credit cards, but only had enough cash to pay the doctor for the IV drip Brian needed for an hour, and not enough for petrol to get us back home. We had to beg for gas along the way and send the manager some money in the mail when we got back to the U.S.
So two days ago as we drove along the highway going north to Fairbanks, I admitted that I felt sorry that we weren't closer to nature during this trip, that we hadn't even seen much wildlife, least of all a bear. No sooner had I uttered the words, as we crossed a bridge, Brian yelled out "bears" and there they were, fishing in the river for salmon.
There were three brown bears, looking quite scrawny and hungry. Brian ignored my request for a close up and stayed in the car to take photos, saying "My mamma didn't raise no dummy". One hundred metres away in the parking lot, were half a dozen RVs camped. I thought for a moment that we should go over and warn them, but then I realized that they were doing the next best domesticated version of seeing Alaska, and probably would never see the bears whilst safely ensconced in their massive truck-homes.
So what beautiful natural scenes have we enjoyed? The most breath-taking has been Exit Glacier, near Seward. There are many more glaciers around and many ways to see them, but for us, a quick hike through the woods, without the cost and sometimes hassle of getting on a boat or plane or joining a tour, was perfect. We may splurge on this trip at some time on a flight-seeing tour, but for now, we're happy to drive and walk around.
The most interesting place so far, has been Homer. It's a little town on the southern end of the Kenai Peninsula and has lots of character, with arty cafes that host open mike nights and shops supporting local artists. I could imagine settling there for a while. The locals are friendly and laid-back and there're plenty of delicious places to eat, for such a small town, like the Cosmic Cafe. I had the blackened halibut taco salad, mmmmmm!
We've met many friendly people and have enjoyed sharing the details of our trip with them. They are always genuinely interested in Australia and often express a desire to go there. I always suggest they go in the winter, because I think they would die of heat in our summer. I don't think they really understand the meaning of 'hot', just as I have no idea of what minus 30 degrees C feels like.
Standing in line in the post office in Wasilla, it being a lovely 23 degrees C outside, I had to supress laughter as a woman wandered in complaining about the heat, and how Alaska should adopt the siesta system, since the best thing to do in that temperature was take a nap!